Neroli is an oil obtained from bitter orange flowers, usually by steam distillation. It has a floral character with fresh, green and citrus accents. Its name is deeply rooted in the history of European perfumery, and the raw material itself is one of the recognizable materials that create elegant bouquets.
Characteristics and context
Various fragrance materials can be obtained from the same tree: flowers, leaves or fruit peel. They are not interchangeable. Neroli oil also differs from orange blossom absolute, including in the way it is obtained and in its scent profile. In a perfume description, neroli may mean the direction of a note, not a confirmation of the use of a specific natural oil. The INCI list informs about the composition of the cosmetic, and the composition description informs about the olfactory impression.
Meaning and application
In perfumery, not only the name of the plant matters, but also the part from which the material was obtained and the method of its preparation. Distilling the flowers and obtaining material from the fruit peel produce various compositions of natural compounds. Also, orange blossom absolute may smell different from neroli. This is a good example of why an overall citrus character does not mean that the ingredients are identical. These names describe specific traditions and technological solutions.
In practice
In finished perfumes, neroli can work with green, woody, other floral and citrus notes. Sometimes it brings freshness, other times it emphasizes the softness or elegant character of the bouquet. The perception of a single note depends on the proportions and the surroundings, so it is difficult to evaluate the fragrance based on the list of accents alone. It is worth observing its development after application. The description of the notes serves to learn the direction of the composition, and the INCI list and manufacturer's information explain the actual composition and method of use.